• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least a first phase (F1) and a second phase (F2) which are distinct and immiscible with one another at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and which furthermore comprise at least one third phase (F3) in which phase interface (F1) and (F2), wherein: - the density of the phase (F2) is greater than the density of the phase (F1), - the phase (F3) comprises particles (P) of size greater than 50 μm, and - the phases (F1), (F2) and (F3) are distinct at rest.
    公开号:FR3068238A1
    申请号:FR1756206
    申请日:2017-06-30
    公开日:2019-01-04
    发明作者:Helene Balbusquier；Julie Nizan；Julie CANI；Elodie Galandrin
    申请人:Capsum SAS；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    THREE-PHASE COMPOSITION
    The present invention relates to a three-phase composition, in particular intended for food, cosmetic or dermatological applications. It also relates to the use of said composition, in particular as a cosmetic composition, in particular for the care and / or make-up of the skin.
    The compositions consisting of two distinct phases which are immiscible with each other, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, are generally designated by the term of two-phase composition or two-phase composition.
    They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified one in the other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, while, in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and / or emulsifying polymers. The use of two-phase compositions requires prior agitation in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, the two phases separate quickly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term of phase shift ( or demixing).
    Multi-phase compositions, in particular two-phase or three-phase, have already been described, for example in applications FR 2 638 636 or EP 1 064 926, EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, in particular for removing make-up from the eyes.
    Multiphase compositions can nevertheless have certain drawbacks.
    Obtaining a rapid phase shift is desirable for various reasons, in particular because a poor separation of the two phases is perceived as being unsightly by the users.
    This unsightly aspect is particularly exacerbated in the interfacial zone between the first phase and the second phase.
    Due to the successive agitations, this phenomenon is amplified and the phase shift times can lengthen, reaching several hours or even days.
    In addition, in this type of composition, it is generally useful to be able to incorporate liposoluble active principles into an oily phase, but these are for the most part not very stable in contact with a hydrophilic phase. Among these lipophilic active principles which are not very stable in contact with a hydrophilic phase, mention may in particular be made of dermatological active principles such as antifungals such as Econazole and Miconazole, antibacterials such as Chlorquinol, Hexachlorophene, usnic acid, keratolytic derivatives such as salicylic acid and anti-inflammatory drugs such as Γγ-oryzanol and Γα-bisabolol. In order to maintain the integrity of these active principles, it is therefore particularly desirable to limit their contact time with the hydrophilic phase and, consequently, to have a satisfactory phase-shifting process.
    There therefore remains the need for a multiphase composition which can be stored well, without having the drawbacks of prior art compositions, that is to say having a rapid phase shift, stable over time and aesthetic, in particular at the level of the interfacial zone (s) between the distinct phases which are immiscible with one another, a pleasant and unconstrained appearance in terms of the active principles which can be incorporated into these different phases.
    The present invention therefore aims to provide a multiphase composition whose phases are easily emulsified by stirring but demix quickly at rest.
    The present invention also aims to provide a multiphase composition having a pleasant appearance and without constraint regarding the nature of any active ingredients to be incorporated into said composition.
    Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising at least a first phase (Φ1) and a second phase (Φ2) distinct, immiscible with each other at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and further comprising at least a third phase (Φ3) at the interface of phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), in which:
    - the density of the phase (Φ2) is greater than the density of the phase (Φ1),
    said phase (Φ3) comprises (or is formed) of (s) particle (s) (P) of size greater than 50 μm, and
    - said phases (Φ1), (Φ2) and (Φ3) are distinct at rest.
    According to the invention, the ambient temperature corresponds to a temperature of 25 ° C ± 2 ° C, and the atmospheric pressure to a pressure equal to 1013 mbar.
    When the product is at rest, it is in the form of three distinct superimposed layers, the phase (Φ1) constituting the upper layer, the phase (Φ3) the intermediate layer and the phase (Φ2) the lower layer. With stirring, the three layers mix, the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) mixing intimately to form a homogeneous product which can then be applied. Then, at rest, the different phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) separate progressively and the particles (P) are placed at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) to form a phase layer (Φ3) that l '' The product can easily be redispersed by shaking the product again. For the particles (P), we can also qualify their behavior during the phase shift phase as:
    - sedimentation for the particles (P) present at the phase (Φ1); and
    - a creaming for the particles (P) present at the level of the phase (.2).
    The compositions according to the invention are therefore three-phase compositions at rest.
    The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least a first and a separate second phase, immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, which emulsify easily by stirring but demix quickly at rest, characterized in that said composition comprises at least a third phase at the interface between the first phase and the second phase, said third phase comprising (or being formed) particles (P).
    In other words, a composition according to the invention is an at least two-phase composition comprising at least a third phase, comprising (or is formed from) at least one particle (P), at the interface between the first and second phases. We can also speak of three-phase composition. Indeed, the particles (P) at the interface between the first and second phases constitute a third phase as such of the composition.
    Thus, a composition according to the invention presents a unique visual in terms of a multiphasic, in particular biphasic, composition.
    According to the invention, the sometimes unsightly appearance of the interfacial area between the first phase and the second phase is masked by the particles forming the third phase. Unexpectedly, the presence of particles at the interface helps, and even improves, the formation of a "beautiful" interface between the first and second phases.
    In addition, the present invention makes it possible to incorporate into the particles active principles, in particular liposoluble, not very stable in contact with a phase of opposite nature, in particular hydrophilic, and this without prejudice to the quality and / or the speed of the phase shift process.
    The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to incorporate into the particles active principles incompatible with other active agents, possibly present in the other phases.
    The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to incorporate, into the particles, active principles which will diffuse in one and / or the other of the first and second phases. It is then possible to adjust the particles to control the desired diffusion.
    According to the invention, the particles (P) also help / promote the homogenization of the first and second phases, and therefore the formation of the emulsion.
    Particles (P)
    As indicated above, the phase (Φ3) comprises (or is formed) particles (P) of size greater than 50 μm. Thus, the particles (P) are macroscopic particles, that is to say visible to the naked eye.
    Preferably, the particles (P) according to the invention have a size greater than 250 μm, in particular greater than 500 μm, or even greater than 1000 μm.
    Preferably, the particle size (P) is between 500 µm and 3,000 µm, preferably between 1,000 µm and 2,000 µm.
    In the context of the present invention, the term size designates the diameter, in particular the average diameter, of the particles.
    Preferably, the particles (P) according to the invention have a substantially spherical shape.
    According to a first variant, the particles (P) are translucent, even transparent.
    According to another preferred variant, the particles (P) are colored.
    Preferably, the particles (P) are monodisperse. In the context of the present description, the term “monodisperse particles” means the fact that the population of particles according to the invention has a uniform size distribution, in particular as defined in FR3041251.
    Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the nature of the material (s) used to form the particles and / or of the phase (s) used within said particles, so that these particles are placed at the 'desired interface or in such a way that the particles according to the invention sediment or not or cream or not depending on the phase (Φ1) or (Φ2) considered during the phase shift and at rest.
    The particles (P) are not made of metal, glass or ceramic.
    Preferably, in a composition according to the invention, the content of particles (P) is between 1% and 10%, preferably between 2% and 8%, and preferably between 3% and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    According to one embodiment, phase (Φ3) consists of particles (P) chosen from solid or matrix particles and / or particles of the heart / shell type, in particular capsules with a liquid heart.
    The particles (P) can be monophasic or multiphasic. For example, they include a heart (which includes at least one phase) and an envelope or membrane (which constitutes another phase) completely encapsulating the heart. The heart is preferably liquid at 25 ° C. The heart can itself comprise one or more phases. The envelope completely encapsulating the heart is typically based on a gelled polyelectrolyte as defined below.
    According to one embodiment, a particle (P) according to the invention is a solid particle (or monophasic), in particular a sphere (S1) as described below. Among these particles (P), mention may in particular be made of particles such as agar beads.
    According to another embodiment, a particle (P) according to the invention is a particle of the heart / bark (or core / shell) type, also designated by the term "capsule".
    According to one embodiment, the particles (P) comprise a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart being monophasic or comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase , the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one internal drop of an internal phase placed in the intermediate drop.
    Such particles (P) can in particular be obtained by means of a millifluidic process, as described in WO2010063937 and WO2012089820.
    In the context of the present description, the term "gelled envelope" means an external phase surrounding at least partially, preferably completely, an internal phase, and comprising a compound in the gelled state or in the form of a gel. Preferably, the gelled envelope is an aqueous phase, and typically a hydrogel of a polyelectrolyte in the gelled state. The gelled shell can also be designated by the terms "membrane" or "bark".
    Preferably, the gelled envelope has a thickness of less than 500 μm, advantageously greater than 10 μm. The gelled shell is generally formed by a monolayer of a homogeneous material.
    The gelled envelope preferably comprises a gel containing water and a polyelectrolyte advantageously chosen from proteins, natural polysaccharides and polyelectrolytes reactive with multivalent ions.
    By “polyelectrolyte reactive with polyvalent ions”, one understands, within the meaning of the present invention, a polyelectrolyte capable of passing from a liquid state in an aqueous solution to a gelled state under the effect of a contact with a gelling solution containing multivalent ions such as ions of an alkaline earth metal chosen for example from calcium ions, barium ions, magnesium ions.
    In the liquid state, the individual polyelectrolyte chains are substantially free to flow relative to one another. An aqueous solution of 2% by mass of polyelectrolyte then exhibits a purely viscous behavior at the shear gradients characteristic of the shaping process. The viscosity of this zero shear solution is between 50 mPa.s and 10,000 mPa.s advantageously between 3,000 mPa.s and 7,000 mPa.s. This viscosity at the shear gradients characteristic of the flows involved in the manufacture of the capsules is for example measured using a constraint or deformation rheometer imposed on the manufacturing temperature, 25 ° C. for example. For the measurements, a cone-plane geometry with a diameter of 10 to 50 mm is used, and a cone angle of 2 ° maximum.
    The individual polyelectrolyte chains in the liquid state advantageously have a molar mass greater than 65,000 g / mol.
    In the gelled state, the individual polyelectrolyte chains form, with the multivalent ions, a coherent three-dimensional network which retains the liquid core and prevents its flow. Individual strings are retained relative to each other and cannot flow freely from each other. In this state, the viscosity of the gel formed is infinite. In addition, the gel has a flow stress threshold. This stress threshold is greater than 0.05 Pa. The gel also has a non-zero elastic modulus greater than 35 kPa.
    The three-dimensional polyelectrolyte gel contained in the envelope traps water and the surfactant when present. The mass content of the polyelectrolyte in the envelope is for example between 0.5% and 5% relative to the total mass of the envelope.
    The polyelectrolyte is preferably a biocompatible polymer harmless to the human body. It is for example biologically produced.
    Advantageously, it is chosen from polysaccharides, synthetic polyelectrolytes based on acrylates (sodium, lithium, potassium or ammonium polyacrylate, or polyacrylamide), synthetic polyelectrolytes based on sulfonates (polystyrene sulfonate) sodium, for example). More particularly, the polyelectrolyte is chosen from alkaline earth alginates, such as a sodium alginate or a potassium alginate, a gellan or a pectin.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyelectrolyte is a sodium alginate.
    Alginates are produced from brown algae called "laminaria", known by the English term "sea weed".
    Such alginates advantageously have an α-L-guluronate content greater than about 50%, preferably greater than 55%, or even greater than 60%.
    The gelled envelope may also contain a surfactant.
    The surfactant is advantageously an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant or a mixture of these. The molecular weight of the surfactant is between 150 g / mol and 10,000 g / mol, advantageously between 250 g / mol and 1,500 g / mol.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS or SDS).
    The mass content of surfactant in the envelope is greater than 0.001% and is advantageously greater than 0.1%.
    According to one embodiment, a particle (P) according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said liquid heart, said liquid heart being monophasic , and in particular based on a predominantly aqueous phase or on the contrary of a predominantly oily phase.
    Such a type of particle then corresponds to a simple capsule comprising two distinct phases, an internal liquid phase or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a phase external to the gelled state surrounding the internal phase.
    According to a particular embodiment, a particle (P) according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart comprising a drop intermediate of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop. Advantageously, the ratio of the volume of the heart to the volume of the gelled envelope is greater than 2, advantageously is less than 50, and preferably is between 5 and 10. The intermediate phase is for example carried out on the basis of an aqueous solution or oily. When the intermediate phase is aqueous, the internal phase is oily, and conversely when the intermediate phase is oily, the internal phase is aqueous.
    Such a type of particle then corresponds to a complex capsule meaning that the liquid, viscous or thixotropic core comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
    According to a variant, the heart comprises a continuous intermediate phase within which there is a plurality of drops of internal phase (s).
    According to one embodiment, a particle (P) according to the invention comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart comprising an intermediate drop of a phase oily, the oily phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one internal drop of an aqueous phase placed in the intermediate drop.
    According to another embodiment, a particle (P) according to the invention comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart comprising an intermediate drop of a aqueous phase, the aqueous phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an oily phase placed in the intermediate drop.
    Advantageously, the intermediate phase also comprises at least one gelling agent (or texture agent), in particular as described in FR3041251.
    . The gelling agent contributes in particular to improving the suspension of the internal drop (s) arranged in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this embodiment. In other words, the gelling agent makes it possible to prevent / avoid the phenomena of creaming or sedimentation of the internal drop (s) disposed in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this embodiment.
    According to one embodiment, the particles (P) are spheres (S1) solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, in particular agar beads.
    The spheres (S1) are preferably flexible solids. According to the invention, the term "flexible solid" means in particular the fact that the spheres (S1) according to the invention do not flow under their own weight, but can be deformed by pressure, for example with a finger.
    According to one embodiment, the solid spheres (S1) are full.
    According to one embodiment, the spheres (S1) according to the invention are prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification. The size of the spheres (S1) is then less than 500 μm, or even less than 200 μm. According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises spheres (S1) of reduced size, in particular compared to spheres (S1) obtained by a microfluidic process. This small size will have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention, formed of spheres (S1) finely dispersed, has improved smoothness qualities.
    According to another embodiment, the spheres (S1) according to the invention are prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" process, in particular as described in FR2972371. According to this embodiment, the size of the spheres (S1) is macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye, in particular greater than 500 pm, or even greater than 1000 pm. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the size of the spheres (S1) is between 500 and 3000 pm, preferably between 1000 pm and 2000 pm.
    According to one embodiment, the particles (P) comprise a shell resulting from a coacervation reaction between an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.
    According to one embodiment, these particles are prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification, the size of the particles thus obtained being less than 500 μm, or even less than 200 μm.
    According to another embodiment, these particles are prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" process. According to this embodiment, the size of the particles thus obtained is greater than 500 μm, or even greater than 1000 μm.
    These particles (P) can have a very fine bark, in particular of thickness less than 1% of the diameter of the particles. The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 μm and is too small to be measured by optical methods.
    According to one embodiment, the thickness of the bark of the particles is less than 1000 nm, in particular between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, preferably less than 10 nm.
    The measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the small-angle Xray Scattering method, as implemented in Sato et al. J. Chem. Phys. 111, 13931401 (2007). For this, the drops are produced using deuterated water, then are washed three times with a deuterated oil, such as for example a deuterated oil of the hydrocarbon type (octane, dodecane, hexadecane). After washing, the drops are then transferred to the Neutron cell in order to determine the spectrum l (q); q being the wave vector. From this spectrum, classical analytical treatments (REF) are applied in order to determine the thickness of the hydrogenated crust (not deuterated).
    As indicated above, the bark is formed by coacervation, that is to say by precipitation of polymers charged with opposite charges. Within a coacervate, the bonds binding the charged polymers to each other are of the ionic type, and are generally stronger than the bonds present within a membrane of the surfactant type.
    The bark is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and of a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of anionic type. These two polymers act as stiffening agents for the membrane.
    The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers can be caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reagents, etc.). The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two polymers charged with opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each particle typically forms a shell which completely encapsulates the heart of the particle and thus isolates the heart of the particle from the continuous aqueous phase. Preferably, when the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, the cationic polymer is lipophilic, and conversely when the anionic polymer is lipophilic, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic.
    In the context of the present description, the term “anionic polymer” (or polymer of anionic type) means a polymer comprising chemical functions of anionic type. We can also speak of an anionic polyelectrolyte.
    By anionic chemical function is meant a chemical function AH capable of yielding a proton to give a function A. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is found, the anionic type polymer therefore comprises chemical functions in AH form, or well in the form of its conjugate base A.
    As an example of anionic type chemical functions, mention may be made of the carboxylic acid functions -COOH, optionally present in the form of a carboxylate anion -COO-.
    As an example of an anionic type polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are for example acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be an anionic polymer comprising monomer units comprising at least one chemical function of the carboxylic acid type.
    Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water.
    Among the examples of anionic polymer suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of acrylic acid or of maleic acid and of other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, C 5 -C 8 alkyl acrylates, C 1 -C 30 alkyl acrylates, C 12 -C 22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates, and mixtures thereof .
    According to one embodiment, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer or a crosslinked acrylate / Ci 0 - 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer. Preferably, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer.
    According to one embodiment, the shell of the particles comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer.
    In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term “carbomer” means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) possibly crosslinked.
    Among the carbomers of the invention, there may be mentioned those marketed under the names Tego®Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or even Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.
    According to one embodiment, the term “carbomer” or “carbomer” or “Carbopol®” is intended to mean a polymer of high molecular weight acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 th Edition, plll). For example, it is Carbopol ®10, Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940, Carbopol®941, Carbopol®71G, Carbopol®980, Carbopol®971 P or Carbopol® 974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.
    Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
    According to the invention, the anionic polymer may also be a copolymer crosslinked acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) as defined above.
    According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked acrylate / C 10 - 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer.
    In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, the term “cationic polymer” (or polymer of cationic type) means a polymer comprising chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of a cationic polyelectrolyte.
    Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or liposoluble.
    In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, by chemical function of cationic type, is meant a chemical function B capable of picking up a proton to give a BIT function. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is found, the cationic type polymer therefore has chemical functions in B form, or else in BIT form, its conjugated acid.
    As an example of chemical functions of cationic type, there may be mentioned the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, optionally present in the form of ammonium cations.
    As an example of a cationic polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least part of which carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.
    Such monomers are for example aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
    Among the examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention, there may be mentioned amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.
    Mention may also be made of amodimethicone derivatives, such as for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.
    Mention may be made of the bis-isobutyl PEG-14 / amodimethicone copolymer, the Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, the Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and the bishydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone.
    Mention may also be made of polymers of polysaccharide type comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).
    Mention may also be made of polymers of the polypeptide type comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.
    Mention may also be made of polymers of polyethyleneimine type comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.
    According to one embodiment, the particles (P), and in particular the shell of said particles (P), comprise a cationic polymer which is a silicone polymer modified by a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.
    According to one embodiment, the particles, and in particular the shell of said particles, comprise amodimethicone.
    According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:
    in which: NHz
    - R ,, R 2 and R 3 , independently of each other, represent OH or CH 3 ;
    - R 4 represents a group -CH 2 - or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical in C3 or C4;
    - x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and better still between 80 and 300;
    - y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and better still between 5 and 20; and
    - z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.
    In the above formula, when R 4 represents a group -X-NH-, X is linked to the silicon atom.
    In the above formula, Ri, R 2 and R 3 preferably represent CH 3 .
    In the above-mentioned formula, R 4 is preferably a - (CH 2 ) 3 -NH- group,
    According to one embodiment, at least one particle of the phase (Φ3) and / or the phase (Φ1) and / or the phase (Φ2) of a composition of the invention comprises at least one active principle, preferably chosen among the hydrating agents, the healing agents, the depigmenting agents, the UV filters, the desquamating agents, the antioxidant agents, the active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, the dermodecontracting agents, the antiperspirant agents, the soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, perfuming agents and their mixtures.
    According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises particles (P ') different from the particles (P) present in phase (Φ3) and / or phase (Φ1) and / or phase (Φ2) , these particles (P ′) possibly also comprising at least one active principle as described above.
    These particles (P ’) sediment or cream in one of the phases (Φ1) or (Φ2) of the composition according to the invention at rest.
    Such a composition is advantageous in that it presents a unique visual at the level of a multiphasic composition, and in that it helps, even improves, the formation of a "beautiful" interface between the first and second phases as well that mix quality.
    It also makes it possible to incorporate into these particles (P), or even (P ′), active principles, if necessary not very stable in contact with a phase of opposite nature, or even incompatible with other active agents, and this without prejudice for the quality / speed of the phase shift process.
    Phases (Φ1) and (Φ2)
    As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises an upper phase (Φ1) and a lower phase (Φ2), distinct at rest.
    According to one embodiment, the mass ratio between the phase (Φ1) and the phase (Φ2) is between 10/90 and 90/10, in particular between 20/80 and 80/20, preferably between 30/70 and 70/30, even between 40/60 and 60/40, and preferably is equal to 50/50.
    The viscosity of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), and therefore of a composition according to the invention, can vary significantly which in particular makes it possible to obtain varied textures as well as more or less long phase shift kinetics.
    According to one embodiment, the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) have a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 to 300,000 mPa.s, and better still from 1,000 mPa.s at 100,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
    A person skilled in the art, in view in particular of his general knowledge, will be able to adjust the viscosity of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), so as to allow in particular an easy and intimate extemporaneous mixing between these two phases as well as a sufficiently rapid phase shift. in time.
    Phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) have the same or different viscosity.
    The viscosity is measured at room temperature, for example T = 25 ° C ± 2 ° C and at room pressure, for example 1013 mbar, by the method described below.
    A Brookfield type viscometer is used, typically a Brookfield RVDV-E digital viscometer (torsional torque of the spring of 7187.0 dyne-cm), which is a rotational viscometer at imposed speed provided with a mobile (designated by the English term "Spindle >>). A speed is imposed on the rotating mobile and the measurement of the torque exerted on the mobile makes it possible to determine the viscosity by knowing the geometry / shape parameters of the mobile used.
    For example, use a mobile of size No. 04 (Brookfield reference: RV4). The shear rate corresponding to the viscosity measurement is defined by the mobile used and the speed of rotation thereof.
    The viscosity measurement is carried out over 1 minute at room temperature (T = 25 ° C ± 2 ° C). One places approximately 150 g of solution in a beaker of 250 ml of volume, having a diameter of approximately 7 cm so that the height of the volume occupied by the 150 g of solution is sufficient to arrive at the marked gauge on the mobile . Then, we start the viscometer at a speed of 10 rpm and wait until the value displayed on the screen is stable. This measurement gives the viscosity of the fluid tested, as mentioned in the context of the present invention.
    According to one embodiment, the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) are translucent, even transparent.
    The transparency or translucency of these phases is determined as follows: the phase to be tested is poured into a 30 ml Volga jar, the phase is left for 24 h at room temperature and a white sheet is placed on it, which is mark with a black marker a cross about 2 mm thick. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the phase is transparent or translucent.
    This transparent or translucent aspect is privileged to guarantee the differentiating visual conferred by the particles (P), even (P ’), and therefore the presence of a significant aesthetic element.
    According to one embodiment, phase (Φ1) is an oily phase or an aqueous or alcoholic phase or a mixture between an aqueous phase and an alcoholic phase.
    According to one embodiment, phase (Φ2) is an oily phase or an aqueous or alcoholic phase or a mixture between an aqueous phase and an alcoholic phase.
    The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises water, and this in a content preferably between 5% and 99% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase.
    In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention can also be natural spring water or floral water.
    The alcoholic phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one alcohol, in particular a mono-alcohol (and therefore without water).
    Among the alcohols which may be present in the alcoholic phase, mention may also be made of dialcohols such as propylene glycol and trialcohols such as glycerol.
    According to the invention, the term mono-alcohol designates a mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
    The alcoholic phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohol (s). As mono-alcohol, one can quote ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.
    According to one embodiment, the alcoholic phase of the compositions of the invention comprises ethanol.
    The mixture between an aqueous phase and an alcoholic phase is preferably a water-ethanol mixture.
    According to one embodiment, one of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) of the composition according to the invention is an oily phase, the other being an aqueous or alcoholic phase.
    According to one embodiment, the phase (Φ1) of the composition according to the invention is an oily phase and the phase (Φ2) of the composition according to the invention is an aqueous phase.
    According to another embodiment, the phase (Φ1) of the composition according to the invention is an alcoholic phase and the phase (Φ2) of the composition according to the invention is an oily phase.
    According to another embodiment, the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) of the composition according to the invention are oily phases, immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular as defined in the patent application filed under FR1752204. The expert will be able to adjust the choice of oils to meet the above-mentioned "immiscible" criterion.
    According to the invention, an oily phase (or fatty phase) comprises at least one oil. “Oil” means a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
    The oils which can be used in a composition according to the invention, namely in the first and / or second phase (s), or even third phase, can be chosen from the group comprising:
    hydrocarbon-based oils of animal or vegetable origin, such as perhydrosqualene, squalane, liquid triglycerides of C 4 -C 10 fatty acids such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oils, corn, soy, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names "Miglyol 810 >>," Miglyol
    812 "and" Miglyol 818 "by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, or shea butter oil;
    - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a C8 to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, in C3 to C30, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate -dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisoketyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorin 3631);
    - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam oil;
    - silicone oils, such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls;
    - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;
    - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
    - and their mixtures.
    The composition according to the invention can also comprise a phase (Φ4) whose density is greater than that of phase (Φ1), phase (Φ4) being immiscible with phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), and a phase (Φ5), comprising particles (P ') of size greater than 50 μm, preferably greater than 250 μm, in particular greater than 500 μm, said particles (P) and (P ′) being of different nature, in which :
    - either the density of phase (Φ4) is lower than that of phase (Φ2), and then phase (Φ3) is at the interface of phases (phases1) and (Φ4), and phase (Φ5) is at the interface of phases (Φ2) and (Φ4),
    - either the density of the phase (Φ4) is higher than that of the phase (Φ2), and then the phase (Φ3) is at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), and the phase (Φ5) is at the interface of phases (Φ2) and (Φ4).
    Phase (Φ4) can therefore be aqueous, oily, alcoholic, preferably aqueous.
    Additional compound (s)
    According to the invention, the phase (s) (Φ1), (Φ2) and / or (Φ3), even (Φ4) and / or (Φ5). may / may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the above-mentioned compounds and active agents, and may thus also include powders, flakes, coloring agents such as, for example, pigments, dyes, nacres, liquid crystals and their mixtures), particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase other than coloring agents, emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in EP 2 353 577, “soft focus” fillers, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, modifying agents chosen from texturing agents, viscosity agents (for example gelling agents / texturing agents of aqueous phase different from the abovementioned base), pH, strength osmotic and / or refractive index modifiers etc ... or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
    uses
    The compositions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetic field.
    A composition according to the invention is therefore advantageously a cosmetic composition, if necessary in association with a physiologically acceptable medium.
    The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin. .
    The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be conditioned.
    According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
    The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be care, sun protection, cleansing (make-up removing), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.
    Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, in particular a foundation.
    These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
    Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a make-up, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratin materials, especially the skin.
    According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair treatment, an anti-treatment -age, a sunscreen, an oily skin treatment, a whitening treatment, a hydrating treatment, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser , shower gel or shampoo.
    A care composition according to the invention may in particular be a sunscreen composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.
    The compositions according to the invention can be in various forms, in particular in the form of a cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gelcreme or even mist.
    The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular of make-up and / or care, preferably make-up, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.
    In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
    Finally, the present invention also relates to a kit comprising:
    - A first composition comprising at least a first phase (Φ1) and a second phase (Φ2) distinct, immiscible with each other at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and further comprising at least a third phase (Φ3) formed of particles ( P) of size greater than 50 μm, preferably greater than 250 μm, in particular greater than 500 μm, in which:
    - the density of the phase (Φ2) is greater than the density of the phase (Φ1),
    - phases (Φ1), (Φ2) and (Φ3) are distinct at rest, and
    - the particles (P) have a density greater than the phase (Φ2) and / or less than the phase (Φ1);
    and
    a second composition comprising at least one agent (G) capable of modifying the density of at least one of the two phases (Φ1) and / or (Φ2) so as to ensure displacement of the particles (P) at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) when brought into contact with the first composition.
    In other words, in a first composition as described above, and in contrast to a composition according to the invention, the third phase (Φ3) is not at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2). On the contrary, the third phase (Φ3) is then above the phase (Φ1) and / or below the phase (Φ2).
    During the extemporaneous mixing of the second composition with the first composition, the agent (G) leads to an increase in the density of the phase phase (Φ2) and / or to a decrease in the density of the phase (Φ1), forming thus a final product in which the particles (P) are at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) (ie the composition according to the invention).
    Preferably, to maintain the positioning of the particles (P) over time at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), this agent should not impact the density of the particles (P). Such a kit is notably described in Example 3 below.
    The nature and quantity of this agent (G) is within the general competence of the person skilled in the art. By way of illustration, in the case where it is sought to increase the density of an aqueous phase (Φ2), the agent (G) can be represented by glycerin, a high molecular weight PEG (typically greater than 100,000 Da ), and their mixtures.
    Throughout the description, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
    The expressions "ranging between ... and ... >>," ranging from ... to ... >> and "ranging from ... to ... >> must be understood bounds included, except if the opposite is specified.
    The amounts of the ingredients appearing in the examples are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
    The examples which follow illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.
    EXAMPLES
    Example 1 Composition according to the invention with particles (P) of the heart / shell type
    1. Preparation of the phase (Φ3) formed of particles (P)
    Particles (P) of the core / shell type according to the invention are prepared as described below. These particles (P) consist of an envelope of gelled external phase (OF), of an intermediate drop of an aqueous intermediate phase (MF) and of an internal drop of an oily internal phase (IF), said internal drop being completely surrounded by the intermediate drop. The particles (P) are obtained from these IF, MF, OF phases and from the calcium bath (dedicated to gelling the OF phase) and thus allow the formation of the gelled envelope of the particles) described below in using a millifluidic device as described in WO2010063937 and WO2012089820.
    1.1. Preparation of the internal oily phase (IF):
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Refined apricot kernel oil PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL qs * Tinogard® TT PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-TBUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.10 Total 100.00
    * Sufficient quantity for.
    In a beaker, Tinogard® TT and apricot kernel oil were incorporated, then the whole was heated to 60 ° C. with stirring until the Tinogard® TT was completely dissolved.
    1.2. Preparation of the aqueous intermediate phase (MF):
    Last name INCI Name % w / w OSMOTIC WATER AQUA qs * MICROCARE PE PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.80 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.00 PROTANAL LF 200 FTS ALGIN 0.03 PHYLCARE SODIUM HYALURONATE CPS SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.95 Total 100.00
    In a beaker, osmosis water was incorporated, the PTG emollient microcare, the PE microcare and the beaker was placed with mechanical stirring with a deflocculating paddle.
    With stirring, phylcare sodium hyaluronate CPS and protanal LF 200 fts were added. The engine speed was then gradually increased and agitation was maintained until the powders were completely dispersed.
    1.3. Preparation of the external phase (OF):
    Last name INCI Name % w / w OSMOTIC WATER Aqua qs * MICROCARE PE PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.80 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.00 PROTANAL LF 200 FTS ALGIN 2.00 SODIUM DODECYL SULPHATE PRS CODEX PROPANEDIOL, AQUA 0.14 ECONA ™ N-5881S Indigo Blue Mica (and) Tin Oxide (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract 1.80 Timiron Splendid Green Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica (and) Silica 1.20 Total 100.00
    Osmosis water, the emollient microcare PTG, the microcare PE were incorporated into a beaker. The beaker was then placed under mechanical stirring with a deflocculating paddle.
    With stirring, sodium dodecyl sulfate and protanal LF 200 fts were added.
    The engine speed was gradually increased and stirring was maintained until the powders were completely dispersed.
    îo Finally, the pigments Econa N-58881S and Timiron Splendid Green were added, then the whole was stirred until the glitter was completely dispersed.
    1.4 Composition of the calcium bath
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Osmotic water Aqua qs Calcium chloride Calcium chlorid 20.00 Tween 20 Polysorbate 20 0.10 TOTAL 100.00
    The flow rates considered at the millifluidic device level are:
    density flow rate (in ml / h) IF 0.925 10.81 MF 1 40 OF 1 10
    Optionally, the particles (P) obtained can then be immersed in an alcoholic composition (in accordance with WO2015075074).
    2. Preparation of the oily phase (Φ1)
    The oily phase (Φ1), the preparation of which falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art, has the following constitution:
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Phases CREASIL IDG isododecane qs CREASIL IHCG isohexadecane 27,00 JOJOBA LITE OIL Simmondsia chinensis seed oil 10.00 KF96A 6CS dimethicone 9.00 TOTAL 100,000
    3. Preparation of the aqueous phase (Φ2)
    The aqueous phase (Φ2), the preparation of which falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art, has the following constitution:
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Phases Osmotic water Aqua qs MICROCARE PE PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.80 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.00 GLYCERIN40,00 NACI0.50 TOTAL 100.00
    4. Preparation of a composition according to the invention
    The aqueous phase (Φ2), the particles (P) (i.e. phase (Φ3)), then the phase (Φ1) are introduced into a receptacle; the mass ratio between phase (Φ1) and phase (Φ2) is between 10/90 and 90/10, in particular between 20/80 and 80/20, preferably between 30/70 and 70/30, or even between 40/60 and 60/40, and preferably is equal to 50/50.
    A composition is obtained according to the invention in which, after stirring, the phases (Φ1), (Φ2) and (Φ3) are mixed and form an extemporaneous emulsion of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases (Φ1 ) and (Φ2), but such that at rest, the two phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) separate quickly and return to their initial state with phase (Φ3) at their interface (= phase shift or demixing).
    A composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous in that it is provided with:
    - a differentiating visual brought by the phase (Φ3);
    - a rapid phase shift, stable over time and aesthetic, in particular at the level of the interfacial zone between the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2),
    - of a pleasant and unconstrained appearance in terms of the active principles which can be incorporated in these different phases, without the interface being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and / or emulsifying polymers.
    Example 2 Composition according to the invention with particles (P) of the solid (or matrix) type
    1. Preparation of the phase (Φ3) formed of particles (P)
    Particles (P) of the core / shell type according to the invention are prepared as described below. These particles (P) consist of a coacervate membrane and a heart formed from an oily phase (IF). The particles (P) are obtained by means of a microfluidic device as described in WO2017046305 and leads to the formation of an intermediate composition deriving from the use of an aqueous phase (OF), an oily phase ( IF) and a base solution (BF) described below.
    Water phase: OF
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Osmotic water Aqua QSP Glycerin codex (99%) Glycerin 5.89 Zemea propanediol 2.99 Butylene Glycol Butylene Glycol 2.95 Microcare emollient PTG Pentylenglycol 2,436 Microcare PE phenoxyethanol 0.96 Tego carbomer 340 FD carbomer 0.32 Aristoflex Velvet Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 0.086 Rhodicare T xanthan 0,056 Cellosize Hydroxyethyl cellulosePCG-10 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0,027 EDETA BD Disodium EDTA 0,039 Sodium Hydroxide Pellets PRS codex Sodium hydroxide 0.049 Total 100.00
    Oily phase: IF
    Last name INCI Name % w / w DUB ININ Isononyl Isononanoate QSP * Rheopearl KL2 Dextrin Palmitate 15,00 Nusil CAS 3131 amodimethicone 0.20 Creasperse White R Titanium Dioxide, HydrogenatedPolydecene, Hydroxystearic Acid 0,051 Phat Blue DC 6204 Cl 61565 / Cl 60725 0.0025 Total100.00
    Base (BF):
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Osmotic water Aqua QSP * NaOH Sodium Hydroxide 2.9929 Total 100.00
    The preparation of the BF is part of the general knowledge of the skilled person.
    Procedure:
    For the OF:
    - A first phase, called OF1, consists of water and the carbomer. This mixture is stirred using a pale deflocculator for 2 hours.
    - A second phase, called OF2, is prepared. It consists of glycerin, butylene glycol, Zemea and Rhodicare T. The mixing is stirred manually using a spatula for 1 min. The objective is to homogeneously disperse the Rhodicare T powder within the phase.
    - OF2 is added, with stirring, to IOF1.
    - Aristoflex Velvet is added to the mixture using a concentrated aqueous solution at 1% m in Aristoflex Velvet. Similarly, Cellosize hydroxyethyl cellulose PCG-10 is incorporated using an aqueous solution concentrated in Cellosize hydroxyethyl cellulose PCG-10 at 0.5% m. Once these 2 compounds have been added, the mixture is stirred for 1 hour.
    - Microcare PE, Microcare PTG and EDETA are subsequently added. The mixture is stirred for 5 min.
    - The soda is then incorporated.
    - The last step is to mix the solution for 2 hours.
    For the base: Soda and water are mixed with a magnetic bar for 5 min.
    For the IF:
    - Amodimethicone is added to DUB ININ and then mixed using a magnetic bar for 15 min.
    - The mixture is heated to 80 ° C and then the Rhaopearl KL2 is added with magnetic stirring.
    - Phat Black DC 9206 dye and Creasperse White R are then added, the mixture obtained being mixed using a magnetic bar for 15 min.
    - This mixture can then be placed in a water bath heated to 85 ° C with magnetic stirring for 1 hour.
    The flow rates considered at the millifluidic device level are:
    Flow rate (in ml / h) Based 2.47 IF 20 OF 150
    During the manufacture of the intermediate composition, the IF and the microfluidic device are maintained at 80 ° C.
    The intermediate composition comprises dispersed pale blue translucent fatty phase drops in a colorless translucent aqueous gel.
    The drops are then filtered (via a filter or sieve whose mesh size is less than the average diameter of the drops) so as to remove the aqueous continuous phase (OF), and thus collect the drops which will represent the phase (Φ3).
    2. Preparation of the oily phase (Φ1)
    The oily phase (Φ1), the preparation of which falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art, has the following constitution:
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Phases Meadowfoam oil Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil qs TOTAL 100,000
    3. Preparation of the aqueous phase (Φ2)
    The aqueous phase (Φ2), the preparation of which falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art, has the following constitution:
    Last name INCI Name % w / w Phases Osmotic water Aqua qs MICROCARE PE PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 1.60 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 4.00 GLYCERIN20.00 NACI0.10 TOTAL 100.00
    4. Preparation of a composition according to the invention
    In a receptacle, the aqueous phase (Φ2) is introduced, the particles (P) previously separated in whole or part of the OF (i.e. phase (Φ3)), then the phase (Φ1); the mass ratio between phase (Φ1) and phase (Φ2) is between 10/90 and 90/10, in particular between 20/80 and 80/20, preferably between 30/70 and 70/30, or even between 40/60 and 60/40, and preferably is equal to 50/50.
    A composition is obtained according to the invention in which, after stirring, the phases (Φ1), (Φ2) and (Φ3) are mixed and form an extemporaneous emulsion of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases (Φ1 ) and (Φ2), but such that at rest, the two phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) separate quickly and return to their initial state with phase (Φ3) at their interface (= phase shift or demixing).
    A composition according to Example 2 has the same advantages as that described in Example 1.
    Example 3: Kit according to the invention
    The kit includes a first composition and a second composition as described below.
    1. Preparation of the first composition
    Phase (Φ3)
    The phase (Φ3) formed of particles (P) is almost identical to that described in Example 1. The particles (P) differ in the absence of oily IF.
    In other words, the core of the particles (P) of Example 3 is only aqueous and of the following composition:
    1.2. Preparation of the aqueous intermediate phase (IF):
    Last name INCI Name % w / w OSMOTIC WATER AQUA qs * MICROCARE PE PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.80 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.00 PROTANAL LF 200 FTS ALGIN 0.03 PHYLCARE SODIUM HYALURONATE CPS SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.7 COLORONA BRIGHT GOLD MICA, Cl 77891, Cl 77491 0.28 COLORONA FINE GOLD MP-20 Cl 77891, MICA, Cl 77491 0,120 pullulan2.80 Total 100.00
    In a beaker, osmosis water was incorporated, the PTG emollient microcare, the PE microcare and the beaker was placed with mechanical stirring with a deflocculating paddle.
    With stirring, phylcare sodium hyaluronate CPS, protanal LF 200 fts, and then colorona and pullulan were added. The speed of the motor was then gradually increased and agitation was maintained until satisfactory homogenization.
    1.2. Preparation of the external phase (OF):
    Last name INCI Name % w / w OSMOTIC WATER Aqua qs * MICROCARE PE PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.80 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.00 PROTANAL LF 200 FTS ALGIN 3.00 SODIUM DODECYL SULPHATE PRS CODEX0.14 COLORONA BRIGHT GOLD MICA, Cl 77891, Cl 77491 0.4 SYNCRYSTAL SPARKLING SILVER SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE 0.43 Total 100.00
    Osmosis water, the emollient microcare PTG, the microcare PE were incorporated into a beaker. The beaker was then placed under mechanical stirring with a deflocculating paddle.
    With stirring, sodium dodecyl sulfate and protanal LF 200 fts were added, then colorona and syncrystal.
    The engine speed was gradually increased and agitation was maintained until satisfactory homogenization.
    The flow rates considered at the millifluidic device level are:
    Flow rate (in ml / h) IF (watery heart) 17 OF 2
    Optionally, the particles (P) obtained can then be immersed in an alcoholic composition (in accordance with WO2015075074).
    Phases (Φ1) and (Φ2)
    The oily phase (Φ1) is identical to that of Example 1.
    The aqueous phase (Φ2) is almost identical to that of Example 1. It differs only in the absence of glycerin which is replaced by an equivalent amount of reverse osmosis water.
    2. Second composition
    The second composition comprises an agent (G) capable of modifying the density of the phase (Φ2), for example represented by glycerin, a PEG of high molecular weight (typically greater than 100,000 Da), and their mixtures.
    3. Obtaining the composition according to the invention
    1) Before mixing the second composition in the first composition, the first composition is such that the particles (P) have a density greater than the density of the aqueous phase (Φ2). Thus, the particles (P) are located at the bottom of the receptacle.
    2) The consumer mixes the second composition into the first composition and, optionally, performs manual stirring of the mixture obtained.
    3) The mixture is left to stand. The two phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) separate quickly and return to their initial state with the particles (P) of phase (Φ3) now present at their interface.
    A final composition according to Example 3 has the same advantages as that described in Example 1 before, in addition, an even more progressive visual and a playful appearance for the user.
    权利要求:
    Claims (15)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Composition comprising at least a first phase (Φ1) and a second phase (Φ2) distinct, immiscible with each other at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and further comprising at least a third phase (Φ3) at the interface of phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), in which:
    - the density of the phase (Φ2) is greater than the density of the phase (Φ1),
    said phase (Φ3) comprises particles (P) of size greater than 50 μm, preferably greater than 250 μm, in particular greater than 500 μm, and
    - said phases (Φ1), (Φ2) and (Φ3) are distinct at rest.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the phase (Φ3) consists of particles (P) chosen from solid or matrix particles and / or particles of the heart / shell type, in particular capsules with a liquid heart.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of particles (P) is between 1% and 10%, preferably between 2% and 8% and preferably between 3% and 5%, and by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the particles (P) comprise a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart being monophasic or comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one internal drop of an internal phase placed in the intermediate drop.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the particles (P) are spheres (S1) solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably thermosensitive, in particular agar beads.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the particles (P) comprise a shell resulting from a coacervation reaction between an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the mass ratio between the phase (Φ1) and the phase (Φ2) is between 10/90 and 90/10, in particular between 20/80 and 80 / 20, preferably between 30/70 and 70/30, or even between 40/60 and 60/40, and preferably is equal to 50/50.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which at least one particle of the phase (Φ3) comprises at least one active principle.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising particles (P ') different from the particles (P) present in the phase (Φ3) and / or the phase (Φ1) and / or the phase ( Φ2), these particles (P ') possibly further comprising at least one active principle.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which one of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) is an oily phase, the other being an aqueous or alcoholic phase.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2) are oily phases, immiscible with one another.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to claim 11, further comprising a phase (Φ4) whose density is greater than that of the phase (Φ1), the phase (Φ4) being immiscible with the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), and a phase (Φ5), comprising particles (P ') of size greater than 50 μm, preferably greater than 250 μm, in particular greater than 500 μm, said particles (P) and (P ′) being of different nature, in which :
    - either the density of phase (Φ4) is lower than that of phase (Φ2), and then phase (Φ3) is at the interface of phases (phases1) and (Φ4), and phase (Φ5) is at the interface of phases (Φ2) and (Φ4),
    - either the density of the phase (Φ4) is higher than that of the phase (Φ2), and then the phase (Φ3) is at the interface of the phases (Φ1) and (Φ2), and the phase (Φ5) is at the interface of phases (Φ2) and (Φ4).
    5
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Cosmetic composition, comprising at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in association with a physiologically acceptable medium.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to claim 13, said composition being a makeup composition, in particular foundation.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular of make-up and / or care, preferably of make-up, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one
    15 step of application to said keratin material of at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    EP3349857B1|2021-07-28|Stable dispersions containing drops comprising a gelling agent
    EP1262164B1|2007-03-28|Compostion having a liquid fatty phase gelified by the combination of two semicrystalline polymers, and containing a particulate paste
    EP0530084B1|1996-03-20|Eyelash and/or eyebrow make-up composition and preparation method therefor
    CA2245989A1|1999-04-01|Cosmetic compound in emulsion form comprising a dispersion of surface stabilized polymer particles in a liquid fat phase
    WO2019002579A1|2019-01-03|Three-phase composition
    WO2004055078A1|2004-07-01|Cosmetic composition comprising a polymer and a non-volatile oil
    FR2772602A1|1999-06-25|NON-TRANSFER COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DISPERSION OF POLYMER PARTICLES IN A LIQUID FAT PHASE AND A LIPOSOLUBLE POLYMER
    EP3413979B1|2020-07-29|W/o emulsion having a fatty phase which is formed by a mixture of dops having a different diameter
    FR3041251A1|2017-03-24|COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS
    WO2016096995A1|2016-06-23|Stable dispersions containing drops of perfuming agent
    FR3063899A1|2018-09-21|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES
    EP1795176A2|2007-06-13|cosmetic foam compositions having reduced density
    EP3644957A1|2020-05-06|Dispersions comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil
    WO2018077977A1|2018-05-03|Double emulsions comprising a gelled fatty phase
    FR3041250A1|2017-03-24|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE COLORING AGENT
    FR2816500A1|2002-05-17|Composition used for keratinic materials, comprises a fatty liquid, a colloidal dispersion of particles solid at ambient temperature and a dispersion of polymer particles surface-stabilized by a stabilizer
    WO2017046299A1|2017-03-23|Stable emulsions of polymer-shell drops
    FR3072026B1|2019-10-25|PARTICLE ASSEMBLIES, PREPARATION METHODS AND KITS COMPRISING THE SAME
    EP1410784B1|2007-02-07|Cosmetic composition comprising an oil phase and a naphthopyran dye and method
    WO2018077986A1|2018-05-03|Double emulsions with double coacervate
    FR3086866A1|2020-04-10|KIT COMPRISING TWO SEPARATE COMPOSITIONS, ESPECIALLY FOR A COSMETIC APPLICATION
    FR3098113A1|2021-01-08|Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates
    FR3071730A1|2019-04-05|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIQUID CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE AND A DISPERSE PHASE IN THE FORM OF DROPS
    FR3082731A1|2019-12-27|DISPERSIONS COMPRISING MACROSCOPIC DROPS DISPERSED IN A CONTINUOUS PHASE INCLUDING REFLECTIVE PARTICLES
    FR3070858A1|2019-03-15|DISPERSION WITH DISPERSE PHASE HAVING A HIGH PIGMENTS CONTENT
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3068238B1|2020-07-31|
    WO2019002579A1|2019-01-03|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US3920883A|1972-11-15|1975-11-18|Shiseido Co Ltd|Liquid cosmetic composition of a two-phase type|
    US20070167338A1|2006-01-09|2007-07-19|Mchugh Colin M|Multiphase personal care compositions comprising beads|
    FR2969907A1|2010-12-31|2012-07-06|Capsum|SERIES OF CAPSULES COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE INTERNAL PHASE DROP IN AN INTERMEDIATE PHASE DROP AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME|
    WO2013034366A2|2011-09-06|2013-03-14|Unilever Plc|Composition|
    WO2013042069A1|2011-09-22|2013-03-28|Ariel-University Research And Development Company, Ltd.|Emulsions and methods of making emulsions|
    FR2983068A1|2011-11-25|2013-05-31|Oreal|Liquid composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, useful to fragrance or treat/care human keratin material, comprises dispersed oil phase comprising nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, continuous aqueous phase and hydrophobic silica aerogel particle|
    FR2986165A1|2012-01-31|2013-08-02|Capsum|PROCESS FOR PREPARING RIGIDIFIED CAPSULES|
    WO2014154732A2|2013-03-26|2014-10-02|L'oreal|Three-phase cosmetic compositions comprising nacres|
    FR3008312A1|2013-07-12|2015-01-16|Oreal|THREE-PHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING ENCAPSULATED PIGMENTS|
    FR2638636B1|1988-11-09|1992-09-11|Oreal|CLEANER FOR EYES WITH TWO SEPARATE PHASES|
    JP2796990B2|1989-05-10|1998-09-10|株式会社資生堂|Skin cosmetics|
    FR2699404B1|1992-12-18|1995-01-27|Oreal|Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing make-up, cleansing or caring for the skin containing benzalkonium chloride.|
    FR2795632A1|1999-06-30|2001-01-05|Oreal|MULTI-PHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON A VOLATILE FLUORINATED OIL AND ITS USE FOR MAKE-UP REMOVAL AND BODY CARE|
    FR2939012B1|2008-12-01|2015-03-27|Capsum|PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A SERIES OF CAPSULES, AND ASSOCIATED SERIES OF CAPSULES|
    FR2954104B1|2009-12-18|2012-03-09|Oreal|W / O EMULSION COMPRISING EMULSIFYING SILICONE ELASTOMER AND VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANE|
    FR2972371B1|2011-03-08|2013-03-15|Capsum|METHOD OF FORMING DROPS FROM A FIRST PHASE DISPERSED IN A SECOND PHASE SUBSTANTIALLY IMMISCIBLE WITH THE FIRST PHASE|
    FR3013233B1|2013-11-19|2016-01-01|Capsum|PROCESS FOR PREPARING CAPSULES COMPRISING A LIQUID CORE AND EXTERNAL SHELL|
    FR3041251B1|2015-09-18|2019-01-25|Capsum|COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS WHOSE FATTY PHASE IS IN THE FORM OF DROPS|
    FR3041252B1|2015-09-18|2019-01-25|Capsum|STABLE DISPERSIONS OF DROPS COMPRISING A GELIFYING AGENT|WO2020128558A1|2018-12-19|2020-06-25|L V M H Recherche|Redispersible three-layer cosmetic|
    WO2020128555A1|2018-12-19|2020-06-25|L V M H Recherche|Redispersible two-layer cosmetic|
    FR3103706A1|2019-12-03|2021-06-04|Laboratoires M&L|Triphasic cosmetic composition|
    法律状态:
    2019-01-04| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20190104 |
    2020-05-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-05-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1756206|2017-06-30|
    FR1756206A|FR3068238B1|2017-06-30|2017-06-30|THREE-PHASE COMPOSITION|FR1756206A| FR3068238B1|2017-06-30|2017-06-30|THREE-PHASE COMPOSITION|
    PCT/EP2018/067649| WO2019002579A1|2017-06-30|2018-06-29|Three-phase composition|
    [返回顶部]